fashion month mixtape SS24

interpreting next season’s trends through my personal style philosophy

i’m in the midst of a personal aesthetic change. for nearly two years, i’ve had a collection of monochromatic fashion magazine cutouts on my wall. now is the time where i’m more ready to commit to this vibe.

of course, color isn’t completely going away from my wardrobe. but i’m challenging myself to imagine color in different silhouettes. and to think of ways to add texture and pattern to monochrome looks, where color really can stand out as an accent. similarly, i want to explore wearing different hues of one color — an experiment in the multidimensionality of monochrome.

while reviewing the SS24 ready-to-wear fashion collections, i bookmarked over 200 images on Vogue Runway. i found myself inspired to approach these collections through my evolving style philosophy, saving details and moments that sparked audible awe. i took note of recurring motifs that excited me, including but not limited to: opera gloves, cargo pants/shorts, sheer/lace, fishnets, open-toed platform boots, and excessive hardware. i also see aspects of early 2010s style coming back around, this time more refined.

while i can’t share all 200+ photos in their full quality here, i’ve organized the main stars according to thematic similarities. some of these designers and concepts could fit into overlapping themes, so i leaned into the aspects that moved me most.

and instead of making a mile-long email, i pinned all of the looks on Pinterest, so you can peruse them there with more leisure.¹ without further ado, here’s the fashion month mixtape for SS24.

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artful absurdism

fashion is an artform and these designers dare to let their imaginations run wild. they make you think of the elements of design in a new way — whether you find a deeper, hidden truth in the work is at your discretion. this is simply the free-range expression of their own divine life force and worldview.

keywords: trompe l’oeil, playing with proportions, and pants hems as necklines/collars.

main stars include: LOEWE (pictured below); Marni (pictured below); Undercover; HODAKOVA; Schiaparelli.

LOEWE SS24. out of proportion, but tastefully distinct.

the piece de resistance at Marni SS24: a floral collage dress. i’ve been getting back into collaging and this spills over into my style with a renewed interest in patchwork. i think this collage design takes patchwork to the next level and make it more tactile and interactive.

coming undone

keywords: raw hems, exposed stitching, deconstructed knits, ripped denim, and safety pins holding it all together.

main stars include: Eytys (pictured below); Ottolinger.

Eytys SS24 — i love how the deconstructed motif repeats from top to bottom. the cursive script on the nameplate belt also makes me think of Apple Bottoms and House of Deréon.

heavy hardware

potentially setting off metal detectors never looked so good.

keywords: exposed zippers, buckles, grommets, chains, wearable tech…don’t even get me started on the cd player handbag by Coperni!

main stars include: Coperni; GmbH; HODAKOVA; Courrèges.

Courrèges SS24 — so many looks in this collection belong in this section, but this was the outfit that made me fervently explore its detail shot.

Coperni SS24 — i’m not sure that i’ve ever needed an accessory like i need this bag. it’s right at the perfect intersection of my interests. plus, i have been debating buying a portable CD player/boombox.

laid back

“with my mind on my money and my money on my mind.” as easygoing as these looks are, they also mean business to me. it’s not just about making money, but rather the business of effortless and cool.

main stars include: The Row (pictured below); Isabel Marant; Eytys.

The Row SS24 — i love how this lookbook reads like a catalog and how pieces are reused through the full collection. there’s also something so effortlessly sophisticated about pairing seemingly casual garments with elegant accessories, as is The Row’s signature when it comes to styling.

maximal denim

keywords: layers of denim, stacked jeans, asymmetrical hems, modular designs, Canadian tuxedos.

main stars include: Diesel; LRS (pictured below); Sacai; Self-Portait; Y/Project (pictured below).

LRS SS24 — this look is giving me the best of 2008 fashion. it’s giving Missbehave Magazine (RIP). i could see Teyana Taylor rocking this outfit.

Y/Project SS24 made me say “Wow” to my screen with this soft pink denim.

redefined classics

an elevated take on basics. these designers display the mastery of their craft in the way they reinvent classic silhouettes and everyday pieces into covetable keepsakes. there’s often a hint of kitsch (but not always).

main stars include: Christopher John Rogers (pictured below); Richard Quinn; Batsheva; Maisie Wilen (pictured below).

technically this look is from CJR’s pre-fall SS24 collection, which i am absolutely in love with. i found a new favorite look with each scroll. the poise and glamour in CJR’s styling/ imagery reminds me of 20th century designers like Cristobal Balenciaga and Hubert de Givenchy. also of Dior’s New Look. the luxury of going to the couturier and having them design something tailored just for you is tangible when you look at these designs.

Maisie Wilen SS24 — a wrap dress in terry cloth? superb.

the sheer genius of it all

keywords: transparency, lace, wide open knits, scantily clad.

main stars include: Supriya Lele; David Koma; Holzweiler; Batsheva (pictured below).

Batsheva SS24 — so adorable!

supreme stripes

keywords: stripes on stripes, bengal and awning stripes, subtle plaids that read like stripes from far away.

main stars: Marni and Sunnei (pictured below) absolutely served in this category. Kiki Kostadinov took it to the next level with the barcode hair.

Sunnei SS24 — this look is a masterclass in mixing patterns of different sizes. Sunnei also gets an A+ for crowd participation and curating exciting offstage moments every season.

totally tailored

keywords: suits, tuxedo jackets with cutouts, crisp white shirts with exciting accents.

main stars: Ambush; Del Core; Ashlyn; Thebe Magugu (pictured below).

Thebe Magugu SS24 — if this was in my closet, i wouldn’t wait until springtime to wear it.

unique upcycling

when found goods become wearable art.

main stars: HODAKOVA (pictured below); Marie Adam-Leenaerdt; Conner Ives.

HODAKOVA’s collection made me gasp multiple times. the ingenuity, the recyclability…it’s all so inspiring and i just cannot get enough!

1. also shoutout to this video by Carolyn Gray where she teaches the benefits and hacks of using Pinterest. it was this video that inspired me to make sections/folders on my boards moving forward!