fashion month mixtape SS23

a quick recap w/looks to inspire

i’ve been brainstorming this draft since NYFW and i figured i’d post it once Paris Fashion Week wrapped. yet, the unveiling of new fashion collections for SS23 took quite a while to slow down — this makes sense considering that designers aren’t as limited to hosting a runway show during the height of fashion month in order to make a serious impact.

options like guerrilla shows, lookbooks, special presentations, or eschewing the fashion schedule altogether have grown more popular since the beginning of the pandemic. of course, there were designers following this wave before 2020 —it’s just that the impetus to stay home, pause, and resist grind culture made the act all the more justified.

in the last two years, mainstream fashion as a whole has also been slightly decentralized to the point that everything and nothing are trending at the same time. it’s not really about what’s new and exciting; it’s about what’s being recycled and what’s re-emerging. but, if you’ve studied fashion long enough, you’ll know this has technically always been the case. you just have to watch long enough to understand which retro era and trends the early adopters will look to next for inspiration.

i’m actually excited for this current phase of fashion where more people are tapping into their own sense of personal style. sure, this has left some confused as they have to grapple with the surge of microtrends that emerge when an individual aesthetic gets emulated by the masses (thanks TikTok). but it also has given people more room to feel comfortable making sartorial mistakes. this is exciting because eventually, the fashion victim can emerge as the style victor just by staying true to themselves. for instance, some of the late 1990s/early 2000s worst dressed list repeaters are now youth style icons — what goes around comes around!

so when i reviewed the collections from this year, i thought a lot about designs that gave me pause in the best way. stunning photos from lookbooks that tell a compelling story and that are still sticking with me weeks later. i’ve always prioritized individual style over fashion; so while this actually may not be all that different from my philosophy in previous years, at least this time i’ve defined it.

in my last couple of fashion month mixtapes, i included a robust review of many collections as a testament to the point that i had viewed it all. well, this year i viewed it all again and i’m leaning towards impact over quantity. so here are 9 images of whimsical, beautifully styled looks from SS23 that i want to print out and hang in my closet for inspiration (featuring the songs i’d imagine strutting to).¹

Thebe Magugu

the monochromatic styling is impeccable, but the contrast of the blue liner really made this stand out to me. also, where is she going looking this fly and can i tag along too??

Roksanda

i was sold by the giant o-ring alone tbh. this is one of those hardware details that does it for me every time, especially when it’s large and campy as seen here. but also the beautiful silk scarf, color-blocking, and overall cozy feel makes this a solid 10/10.

JW Anderson

this look instantly caught my eye when i streamed the runway show because all of the casino lights gleamed off it so artfully. it’s also like the wearer and the viewer are both on display here. where exactly would one wear this? i’m leaning towards a gallery opening and i think the styling should be even gaudier. safe to say that if you’re wearing a chrome orb dress, overdressed is not in your vocabulary.

Chet Lo

there were a couple of monochromatic co-ords in Chet Lo’s SS23 collection that i enjoyed, but something about this cerulean color story really resonated with me. i also cannot get enough of the hat and the mystique that it adds to the overall look. this would slay at a beach resort, especially with the right bikini color underneath for contrast.

Christian Cowan

this gave me the drama i was looking for. giant door knockers? a hairdo that looks like it’s fresh out of a Bronner Bros hair show? an ankle length gown with a fluffy heel? almost everyone else can go home because this is the one.

Batsheva

ok first off, i adore Sophia Roe and she looks amazing as a model for Batsheva. second, the immaculate pairing of this blue lip color with the shiny purple-ish dress has been seared in my brain since i first watched the show.

Marques’Almeida

as colorful as i am, i’ve been inspired within this last year by the classic pairing of black and white. i’ve often returned to this combo as a form of style reset, especially when paired with the right pop of color such as what’s pictured here. this cute color-blocked, drop-waist dress with the ruffle hem is such a statement and i love that the glam & styling were kept fairly simple.

Ashish

i enjoy the photography from this Ashish collection as much as the gorgeous clothing displayed. the image of this stunning woman posing with a sitar in a beautiful pink sequined gown stood out to me the most — i’d be absolutely mesmerized to see any musician wear this look on stage because proof that it looks good with an instrument is already there.

Hanifa

honestly, this look is just cool AF; it’s got that IT factor. i’m not sure there’s much else to say!!

1. all images from Vogue Runway